Heat Pumps
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Heat pumps and low-carbon heating
Air source heat pumps are the centrepiece of low-carbon heating in the UK, delivering three or more units of heat for every unit of electricity consumed — and when paired with solar and storage, a meaningful share of that electricity can be self-generated. We supply heat pump units and associated heating equipment at trade prices, with datasheets on every product page and live UK stock.
How to size and specify
Heat pump capacity must come from a room-by-room heat loss calculation rather than a rule of thumb — an oversized unit cycles inefficiently, an undersized one falls short on the coldest days. The design flow temperature matters just as much: heat pumps achieve their best efficiency at low flow temperatures, so emitter sizing (radiators or underfloor) should be checked against a 35–50°C design rather than the 70°C-plus a gas boiler masks. The seasonal coefficient of performance (SCOP) quoted on datasheets is the comparable efficiency figure; check it at the flow temperature you intend to run.
Installation and certification
For installations claiming government support schemes, both the installer and the equipment must be MCS-certified, and an appropriate heat loss report, noise assessment and (in most cases) permitted development compliance are part of the package. Positioning affects performance: the outdoor unit needs adequate airflow clearance and consideration for defrost condensate. Hot water demands a compatible cylinder — usually a dedicated heat pump cylinder with a larger coil surface area than a boiler-spec equivalent.
Pairing with solar and storage
A heat-pump household typically doubles or triples its electricity consumption compared to gas heating, which strengthens the case for a larger solar array and battery. Winter generation will not cover the whole heating load, but shoulder-season heating and year-round hot water draw substantially on self-generation, and a battery lets cheap overnight tariffs carry the coldest weeks. Our team can help spec the combined system.
Running costs and controls
Real-world efficiency depends as much on commissioning and controls as on the hardware: weather compensation, sensible cycling settings and a correctly set flow temperature routinely make the difference between a disappointing and an excellent seasonal performance figure. Time-of-use electricity tariffs pair well with heat pumps — pre-heating during off-peak windows and coasting through peak pricing — and a buffer or well-insulated fabric extends how far that strategy stretches. Homeowners comparing running costs against gas should use seasonal figures at their actual flow temperature rather than headline COP numbers from ideal lab conditions.
Frequently asked questions
What size heat pump do I need?
Sizing must come from a room-by-room heat loss calculation, not floor area alone. Oversized units cycle inefficiently and undersized ones fall short on the coldest days — our team can point you to the right capacity once a heat loss figure exists.
Do I need to change my radiators for a heat pump?
Sometimes. Heat pumps run most efficiently at low flow temperatures, so emitters are checked against a 35–50°C design. Larger radiators or underfloor heating may be needed in some rooms.
Will solar panels run my heat pump?
Partially. Winter generation will not cover the full heating load, but shoulder-season heating and year-round hot water draw heavily on self-generation, especially with a battery in the system.
Does the equipment need to be MCS certified?
For installations claiming government support schemes, yes — both installer and equipment must be MCS certified. Certification details are on each product page.